Miss Matatabi Makers and a Big Bow Washi Dress

Posted on March 31, 2014 by Cherie

It’s no secret that Miss Matatabi is one of my favorite online sources for fabric, especially Japanese fabrics like Nani Iro. Frances always has an amazing selection of high quality fabrics and she’s a total sweetheart on top of all that. So I am really excited to announce that I get to be one of the regular contributors on her site, sewing up a new project every month with some fabulous fabric from her shop, along with 3 suuuper awesome ladies!

We’re the Miss Matatabi Makers and you can read all about us here.

My first project as an official MM Maker is up on the blog now!

I made a big bow Washi Dress in some gorgeous voile AND it has a secret modification to make it nursing-friendly! Head over to Miss Matatabi for the full post with all the details and how I nearly ruined the whole dress with an accidental serger slice!

And while you’re over there, be sure to check out the other recent posts from Leslie, Angela, and An. So much fun inspiration and gorgeous fabric!

Happy Monday 🙂

Straight Lines and Angles Skirt

Posted on March 24, 2014 by Cherie

Today I am part of the Straight Lines and Angles series hosted by Jess of If Only They Would Nap. The series is inspired by the geometric shapes trend, which I have totally fallen for.

I had originally planned on a triangle print skirt, but ended up setting that idea aside and taking a different approach to the project. Instead of making something with geometric shapes on it, I decided to make something out of geometric shapes.

I was inspired by this awesome hoodie, and decided to use straight lines and angles to piece together a skirt with pockets. I figured it was the perfect opportunity to do some color blocking as well, because that’s always appropriate, right!?

So this is kind of like a basic rectangular skirt (tutorial here), but I cut the pattern into polygons to create the angled center piece and pockets. Here are my pattern pieces . . .

Doesn’t get more “straight lines and angles” than that, huh?

As a finishing touch, I freezer paper stenciled a set of stars (my favorite of all polygons) in one corner. I love stars so much.

I’ve also been having fun coming up with different and unexpected combinations of colors. Since I’m trying to use fabric from my stash, I dug all of these up from my scrap pile. Recognize any of them? The center panel is a gorgeous purpley shot cotton from the Maggie Mae Tunic. The chartreuse is from my Project Run and Play Sew-along Signature Look skinny pants. The side panels of the skirt are a cream linen/linen blend that I used for the Art Museum Vest. The waist band is an oatmeal colored linen, but I have no idea where it came from or what I used it for before.

When I first showed Yuki the skirt, she said she didn’t like it, or the tank top I wanted her to wear with it. Then she suddenly changed her mind and put them on happily and wore them the rest of the day! That was a nice surprise – I feel like I haven’t made her anything she’s actually liked in a long time. And hey! I like it, too! Isn’t it nice when things work out like that?

Follow along the rest of the series here and be sure to enter the Straight Lines and Angles giveaway here!

Have a great week!

Adding Ruffle Sleeves {tutorial}

Posted on March 19, 2014 by Cherie

Last week I shared my daughter’s new baby bodysuit from the Oliver + S Lullaby Layette pattern set and one of the biggest modifications I made to the pattern was adding ruffle sleeves. Ruffle sleeves are a fun and feminine touch for any spring or summer top or dress. Super sweet especially on little ones.

When I was trying to figure out how to attach the sleeves, I looked for a tutorial online, but couldn’t find what I was looking for. I’ve attached ruffle sleeves or flutter sleeves when there was a bodice lining (like in the Geranium pattern), but there was no lining for the body suit. I wanted the ruffle to only cover the top of the arm hole, so I knew I’d need a way to finish the rest of the arm hole with bias tape. Took me awhile to figure out, but it’s so simple, I wonder why I never knew how to do this in the first place!

So some of you might think, “duh, Cherie!” But hey, if I wanted a tutorial like this to be out there in blogland, there must be others needing the same thing, right?! So anyways, here’s the tutorial on how to add ruffle sleeves to any unlined bodice pattern.

If you are starting with a pattern that is meant to have sleeves, the first step is to reduce the width of the shoulder. You can either do this to the pattern before you cut your fabric, or you can do it after. I didn’t remember to do it until after I had cut the fabric and sewed the shoulder seams together. Not a problem.

Trim off from the outer edge of the shoulder seam. The amount is up to you, I trimmed about 1/2 an inch from the shoulder and then gradually curved my line to meet back with the original arm hole. Your finished arm hole will be folded under 1cm (3/8 in), so take that into consideration when deciding how much to trim off.

If you haven’t already, go ahead and cut your front and back bodice pieces and assemble them as you wish/as directed by your pattern up to the point when they are sewn together at the shoulder seams. Side seams should not be sewn yet.

Next, cut your ruffle sleeves. Size will depend on the size of your garment and your preference. I cut my sleeve to be about 3 times longer than the desired size of my finished ruffle. For the height, you can make it however long you want the sleeve to be at the shoulder (longest point) plus about an 3/4 of an inch for seam allowance and hemming. By the way, none of this is very exact, but ruffle sleeves are pretty forgiving like that. 😛

To cut these pieces, cut 2 rectangles in your measurements. Mine were about 2.25 x 13 inches. Fold the rectangle in half widthwise and starting from the center fold, draw an arc to the corner. Cut that out and use it to cut your second ruffle sleeve in the same shape.

You will also need to cut two 1″ strips of fabric on the bias. Measure your armhole and add a couple of inches to that number to determine the length. My armholes were about 9 inches, so I cut 12 inch long strips that were 1″ wide.

Mark the center of the sleeve along the curved edge. This will help later with placement.

Finish the straight edge of the sleeve piece. You can do this in a number of ways. You can hem it by folding it towards the wrong side a 1/4 inch and pressing, then another 1/4 inch encasing the raw edge and sewing it down. You can do a zig zag stitch or serge the edge for a rougher, but cute finish like the Geranium flutter sleeve. I went with something in between by serging the edge and then pressing it under and stitching it down. It looks finished from the right side and you can see the serged edge from the wrong side. This will make it easy to distinguish the right and wrong side in the rest of the pictures.

Now to ruffle that sleeve! Set your machine to widest stitch possible and sew a basting stitch along the curved edge a 1/4 in from the edge. Do not backstitch at either end and leave a couple inches of thread when clipping. Carefully pull on one of the threads (either the top or the bottom) to gather the fabric. Gather the fabric to the length and ruffleness you desire. Make sure the gathers are distributed evenly.

Pin your gathered sleeve to your bodice, right sides together and raw edges aligned, lining up the center mark on your sleeve with the shoulder seam. Baste the sleeve on with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Take your bias strip and fold it into thirds and press. If you want to be really exact, you should fold it in 1/4 in. on one side and 3/8 in. on the other side (the center section will be 3/8 in). Really though, when we start talking an 1/8 of an inch of a difference, I’m not sure if it matters that much.

Pin your bias tape right side down (facing the wrong side of the ruffle sleeve) along the edge of the armhole. This should sandwich the sleeve between the bias tape and the bodice pieces. If you are going with the exact measurements, you want the 3/8 inch fold to be along the edge (right side in this picture). Stitch along the crease closest to the edge.

Fold the bias away from the garment and press.

Flip the garment wrong side up and fold the bias tape in once, then again towards the wrong side. The ruffle sleeve should flip out and the raw edge should be encased. Press carefully and pin.

Sew along the folded edge of the bias tape and trim off excess. Almost done!

Sew side seams of the bodice, right sides together and finish edges as desired. Press seam towards the back. Tack the top of the seam down with a few stitches, if desired. You can see the tacking in the picture below, though it’s hardly noticeable when being worn.

Finish the rest of the garment as directed in your pattern and you’re done!

Enjoy those little arms in those little ruffles!

*As with all my tutorials, this was written extremely late at night when already sleep deprived, so if something doesn’t quite make sense and you need clarification on any part, please don’t hesitate to ask. It’s probably my fault, not yours.*

Happy Sewing! 😛

Lullaby Layette Summery Bodysuit

Posted on March 13, 2014 by Cherie

I’m back with another project from the new Oliver + S Lullaby Layette Pattern Set! This time I made the bodysuit (View A) and went in a totally different direction from the cozy jacket in modern colors. I really wanted to make something sweet, vintage-inspired and summery for the upcoming months. Before you ask, no, the ruffle sleeves are not part of the pattern, BUT I have a tutorial for those coming up next week! They are really quite simple and can be added to pretty much any bodice pattern.

But back to this sweet number . . . the bodysuit features a snap placket at the neckline and also at the bottom for easy diaper changes. It has a cute pleat in the front and back and elasticized leg openings.

The bodysuit is really cute alone because it is quite roomy at the bottom. But you can easily pull pants over it as well and let the extra fabric hang over the pants like a top. Or, if you prefer it, this same pattern can be made as a top. And it has short and long sleeve options. Before I made this bodysuit, I actually made the shirt version (View B), but because of a poor fabric choice on my part, it didn’t come out that great. More on that later . . .

I don’t think I really need to say much about the quality of the pattern, do I? You all already know how awesome Oliver + S patterns are, right? Ok, good. I’ll just leave it at that.

Besides the ruffle sleeves that I added, there were a few other changes I made. Remember how I mentioned I had some difficulty attaching the snaps to the jacket? Well, this pattern called for snaps at the neck and bottom and while it would have been totally doable, I wanted to test out some other options for those who prefer to avoid snaps.

For the front closure, I decided to add buttons instead of snaps. My machine makes pretty neat buttonholes, so this was an easy option for me. Another option, which I tried for the first shirt I made, was to simply sew the bottom portion of the placket closed. I wanted to leave enough room for baby’s head to fit through, but not leave the shirt hanging wide open. So I measured how far up the placket I should sew shut (by testing it on my baby) and left just a few inches open at the top. Easy to do and easy to put on – nothing to open or close!

For the bottom of the bodysuit, snaps are really a must. So I sewed on a strip of this twill tape that already has snaps attached to it. You can find it at most fabric stores – I bought mine at Jo-Ann. If I remember correctly, it’s a bit expensive, but definitely comes in handy when you don’t want to attach your own snaps. I also think it was a good choice for this particular fabric, which even with interfacing, is very thin and delicate.

The fabric is a very lightweight swiss dot cotton that I bought at Discount Fabrics. I originally bought it to make myself a Staple Dress, which I almost finished, but abandoned because I didn’t think it was very flattering on me. I found the unfinished dress recently and I think with a few modifications, it might work, so maybe I’ll try and work on that for the spring. But I had enough left in my stash for this little number. And I think it’s perfect!

The fabric is so thin that it is a little sheer. Perfect for hot weather and appropriate for babies, since they don’t really have to worry much about modesty. Because it’s so thin, it’s very comfortable. The problem with the first shirt that I made was that I had used a quilting cotton that was a bit too stiff for a baby’s shirt. I would recommend sticking with lightweight fabrics and knits, especially for the wee littlest ones. I also chose a crazy print that ended up looking kind of like a miniature bad Hawaiian shirt. 😛

This is pretty much how Kaya felt about the photo shoot.

The only thing I would do differently next time is add a little length to the elastic for the leg openings. It’s hugging Kaya’s chubby thigh already and otherwise she’d be able to fit into this for awhile. And she’s not even a particularly chubby baby! Oh, I made the 3-6 mo. size again and it’s perfect.

Oh, I can’t wait to hit the beach and park with this cutie in her new bodysuit! And us lucky ducks in California don’t really have to wait any longer. Today was gorgeous and in the mid-70s!

Ok, so next week I’ll have the tutorial for the ruffle sleeve, so look out for that! And until then, have you seen the other two new Oliver + S patterns? There’s the Garden Party Dress + Blouse which three of my bloggy buddies all made – check out Kristin’s, Gail’s and Jessica’s. And then, my favorite of the new patterns, is the Hide-and-Seek Dress + Tunic. Can’t wait to sew that one up! What’s your favorite?

*This pattern was generously given to me for this review, but all opinions are, as always, 100% my own.*

Lullaby Layette Baby Jacket

Posted on March 11, 2014 by Cherie

Did you hear? The new Oliver + S spring patterns have been released! There are two adorable spring dresses/tops, and a baby/toddler layette pattern set. I’m so excited to help roll out these patterns by sharing a couple of things I made. I looove the dresses, but was eager to give the Lullaby Layette patterns a try first. The set comes with 4 views – a bodysuit, a shirt, pants and a jacket and covers sizes 0-24 months.

The first thing I made was the raglan style, reversible jacket (View D). I’m always looking for cute outerwear for Kaya. She’s got plenty of onesies, but it can get chilly in all seasons around here, so a jacket is always a must. The pattern calls for wovens, but says knits can be used too. So I definitely wanted to give the knits a try – it just seems like it’d be warm and cozy.

I made size 3-6 months for Kaya who is approaching 6 months. I debated whether I should go with the 6-12 month size for longer wear, but the smaller size still has plenty of room to grow.

The pattern, as you can expect from all Oliver + S patterns, is wonderful. I love the glossary of sewing techniques that they include at the beginning of every pattern – you can learn a lot just by reading that part alone! But then this set includes 3 separate patterns (one that can be made in 2 ways) and each has well written directions with great diagrams. You always get really professional quality clothes when you use O+S patterns and you learn a ton of great sewing skills.

The construction of this jacket is pretty simple and it comes together quickly. It is raglan style, with a simple pleat in the shoulder. You make the jacket and the lining in the exact same way and then attach them together (in a seemingly) seamlessly way that doesn’t require any flipping inside out and hand stitching closed. The hardest part of the whole process was attaching the snaps. I had a helluva time with them, until I realized I was doing it wrong. Once I figured it out it went a little better, but I had one fall off after I thought I was all done. I used the “Easy Attacher” (affiliate link) which actually helped a lot, but Kristin said that the snap fastener pliers (affiliate link) are even better.

One of my goals for 2014 was to try use more fabric from my stash, and though I haven’t stopped buying new fabric completely, I am trying to search through what I have before I buy more fabric and notions. And it’s been fun finding old fabrics and giving them new life when paired with something unexpected. Both this jacket and the bodysuit that I’ll share later this week were completely made with stuff I already had at home! Yay me! 😛

The mustard knit is from Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley and I bought it awhile back to make Yuki a cardigan. I cut it out and everything, but it never got made. I don’t even know what happened to those pieces, but hopefully I’ll find them again in time for Kaya to wear. Anyways, there was enough fabric left to cut out this jacket! It seemed perfect for baby outerwear – a sturdier, thicker knit, but still had some stretch. Someone on Instagram asked me if it was “ponte,” and I don’t actually know what that is! But I looked it up online and the description seems to match pretty closely. Anyone else have a guess?

The other side is a white/black striped knit that I’ve also had forever and used for the shirt in this outfit. It’s pretty thin, so it was nice to be able to pair it with the thicker mustard knit. And the pink bias tape was originally going to be used to bind a baby blanket/quilt that never happened. I do love this kinda funky and modern combination of colors.

So now ~~Yuki~~ – eek, Kaya! I honestly just typed Yuki’s name. Do you guys mix up your kids names all the time too!? Anyways, Kaya has a new jacket for this transition into spring. Oh and yes, spring! It’s coming, can you feel it!? Soooo exciting!

I’ll be back with a truly springy/summery bodysuit for Kaya later this week. What are you sewing for the spring?

*This pattern was generously given to me for this review, but all opinions are, as always, 100% my own.*

More stenciling!

Posted on March 5, 2014 by Cherie

I didn’t realize when I had written my last post that so many people have never done, or even heard of, freezer paper stenciling or potato stamping! They are both such fun and relatively simple ways to add a unique touch to any fabric – clothes, pillows, napkins, bags, etc. If you want to find out more about freezer paper stenciling, there are lots of tutorials and examples you can find online, for example, Dana has a pretty in depth tutorial here. And here’s a basic tutorial on potato stamping on paper, which is basically the same as stamping on fabric – just be sure to use permanent fabric paint and put paper or cardboard under the fabric so the paint doesn’t bleed through to the other side. Also, be sure to read the directions for whatever fabric paint you use, because some of them need to be treated or set differently.

Well, the workshop I did with the high schoolers last week went really really well! I loved sharing the freezer paper stencil technique with them and they all did such a great job getting creative and having fun their projects. They were so into the stenciling that we never actually got around to stamping!

It was really fascinating to see how each student approached the project. Some just dove right in and moved quickly through the process. Some spent hours on one detailed design. Others were able to finish several projects in one day. Some asked lots of questions so they wouldn’t miss a step. Others tried to figure things out for themselves. And they all ended up with projects to be proud of.

A couple of them mentioned that they really enjoyed having the freedom to choose whatever image they wanted and then personalize something with that image. When you think about where high schoolers are at developmentally and how important expression of identity is, you realize that a project like this can be pretty empowering.

But really, I’m hoping that they at least had some fun 🙂 I know I did!

There were a couple of projects that I finished too. The first was the cat onesie for Kaya.

In hindsight, I could have printed the cat a little higher on the onesie, but otherwise, pretty cute, right?

And I also finished my “Makers Gonna Make” shirt for me using Delia’s free printable . . .

you can see the basic steps of the stenciling process here: 1. draw or trace design onto freezer paper and cut out stencil, 2. iron stencil onto fabric, 3. apply fabric paint, let dry and repeat with second coat of paint, 4. peel off stencil to reveal image and heat set paint, if necessary.

I’m so glad that I tried this technique! It’s so fun and gives you the ability to create something truly one-of-a-kind. The possibilities are endless! I got my freezer paper from here and one roll will last you quite a long time.

Do you freezer paper stencil? If you haven’t yet, do you think you will try it?

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Monthly Archives: March 2014